Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Past Times Part Six: 2009

Californian Summer

Thursday, October 22, 2009 2:48 PM

Hello! I am once again writing about the things I do. Many times this summer I meant to sit down and write of the fun filled days but I never got around to it. At last, as I begin my next adventure, I am taking the time to give you a brief update.

This summer felt both long and short, as time tends to feel. As soon as I returned from my southern hemisphere adventure I began my eighth summer as a white water rafting on the South Fork of the American River (class III white water). I also trained on and started guiding the Middle Fork of the American River (class IV white water). When I wasn't working I found time to run a few different rivers for fun with other guides. The Stanislaus was pretty and the Merced trip was fun, as was the overnight fun trip on the Middle Fork but the two that deserve short stories are the Mokelumne and the Cherry Creek trips.

Daniel, Vinny and I had a day off, so we decided to go rafting. The Tiger Creek section of the Mokelumne River was somewhere none of us had gone but Daniel was keen try, so Vinny and I tagged along. The usual put-in for this stretch of river is directly below a low, so of course we put-in directly above it. We climbed aboard Daniel's boat, a boat that has been nick named "the death riken" and Daniel gave a prep-talk. He told us that we were going to have to paddle really hard. Okay. Let's go. Vinny and I were sitting across from each other while Daniel was sitting in the back guiding us. Paddling hard, we went into the wave. Just as I am thinking that we made and "that wasn't too bad" I feel the boat stop, then start to move in the wrong direction. Up pops the front of the boat, caused Vinny and I to tumble out the back of the boat. All three of us are in the water. All I am thinking about are the words of a few kayakers who looked at the dam about fifteen minutes before we ran it: "that's a drowning machine." Then my head came back up and I was breathing air! My helmet doesn't exactly fit properly so I was having trouble with seeing, but hey! At least I still had my paddle in hand. I had my feet downstream of me until I hit a hole, which flipped me over so I was going head first down the river. This was the point at which I really knew that I didn't want to be where I was: still in the water! I swam over the shore and felt like a wet cat, clinging to a bit of dry land. Daniel of course, being the rock star rafter that he is, got to shore immediately, watched the boat surf in the hole that I was flipped over in, then proceeded to get the boat back for us to continue. It was an exciting experience, but nothing compared to my day on Cherry Creek.

Cherry Creek was an intense ride. Before going people would ask me if I was scared or excited or what. I wasn't really feeling anything about it because I wasn't thinking about it. That is, until Daniel did his safety talk immediately before putting on. From what he was saying I started to get scared, but I thought, "hey, I can't back out now!" From the moment we put on the water I was really scared, and that feeling didn't go away until more than two hours later when finished the Cherry Creek stretch of river. Taking two really big swims definitely wasn't on the side of helping the feeling subside. Daniel was guiding the raft I was in; along with us were Trevor and Erin. The first big swim I took was in a rapid called Smokey's Hole. We hit a rock sideways and wrapped (the boat wrapped around the rock and was stuck). I was on the downriver side of the boat with Erin sitting across from me. She was immediately swept out of the boat, just as Daniel was calling a "High side!" Which means that everyone should jump to the high side of the boat. As I turned, trying to grab something, I saw Trevor leaping across the boat but I wasn't quick enough so I followed Erin’s lead and got swept out of the boat too. As I was being tumbled over rocks and through waves I realized I still had my paddle in hand. I can't swim as well holding a paddle than not holding a paddle. Just as I thought "Screw the paddle! We have two spares in the boat" I saw an eddy right next to me. I threw the paddle into the eddy and swam in right behind it. Erin was just downstream of me, on the side as well. Daniel and Trevor were standing on the rock that the boat was wrapped around. Skipping the middle part, once we got that situation all taken care of we were ready to continue rafting down the river.

Then came the rapid name Coffin. When we hit a rock sideways I was happy that I was on the ball this time, holding on and on the high side. Then I realized that the boat wasn't stopping, it was flipping! And I was 'closing the coffin' by holding on! I let go of the boat and fell in the water. When I came up I was underneath the boat, which is a bad place to be. I quickly got out from underneath the upside down boat and saw that (of course) Daniel was already on top of the boat. I held onto the boat for a moment but knew that I wasn't going to be able to pull myself up and Daniel was concentrating on Erin just then so he couldn't help me. I found out later that Erin was recirculating in a hole at that moment. I let go of the boat and caught a rock, which I held onto for a moment. Meanwhile Daniel threw his throw bag to Erin just as she was released from the hole. She held onto the bag but at that point it wasn't helping. She let go of the bag and about the same time that I decided the rock wasn't the best place to be for me. I saw that the shore wasn't too far away and figured that I would go for it. I over estimated the amount of energy I had left. When I was in the current of the river, looking down river and not knowing what was up next, and knowing that I wouldn't be able to make it to the shore, it was terrifying. Thankfully Trevor was already on the shore and he threw his through bag out of me. Erin was there as well so we both grabbed the rope, nearly pulling Trevor off shore. The bit of pendulum swing I got was enough to help me over so I let go of the rope and swam the last couple feet. After climbing onto a dry rock I assumed the fetal position; which is where I was when John's boat passed me. He likes to laugh at that picture and in fact, I do too, now that the situation is over :-)

Oddly enough John, who wasn’t in our boat, was the only one injured. He jumped in to pick up a lost throw bag and hurt his ankle. Once the flipped raft situation was cleaned up we continued down the river. Even though Erin and I were done, the only logical way out was via the raft and river. We walked the next big rapid, Lewis’ Leap, and after that were was only one big rapid left, called Lumsden Falls, which Daniel R-Oned (raft one person). We met up with three more friends at the bottom of Cherry Creek/the top of the Tuolumne River. Then we began an adventurous overnight trip on the Tuolumne.

A couple other highlights of this summer include going to a VNV Nation concert, a day trip to University Falls (a bit of a hike leads you to a beautiful section of the river that includes four natural water slides), picking heaps of fresh blackberries (and making culinary deliciousness with them) and going to Burning Man (an incredible experience that I am not even going to attempt to describe).

Last week I started a California road trip; the details of which will come later…

it begins

Sunday, October 25, 2009 8:11 AM

I am one of the many people that are born and raised in an area that they have never fully explored. You know, it's the case of always have it available, letting it wait until another day to be included on an adventure; until that day however I have been going exploring somewhere abroad. Now is the time at last! After spending the majority of my life in California, I am finally setting out to see many of those places that I have heard of but never bothered to make time for because they were too close at hand. I will be driving my newly purchased (from my brother) Toyota 4Runner around California for five weeks, one of which has already flown by.

The morning of Friday the 16th of October I waited at the San Francisco Airport for the much anticipated arrival of Sarah. We traveled so well together in Australia that we decided to give it another go on another continent. Our first few days were spent in San Francisco doing such things as driving down Lombard St, walking around Pier 39, spending three hours in the Exploratorium (not nearly enough time to see everything, but sensory overload was settling in), walking across the Golden Gate Bridge, walking on Haight St, having a picnic in a park, seeing mock defenestrated furniture and going to a farmer's market. Next we headed south.

On Sunday we took a longish route between San Francisco and Santa Cruz, which included a hike in some redwoods near Felton. Monday morning we drove down Highway One with hot springs in our thoughts. Our destination was Sykes hot springs, located in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park at the end of a ten mile hike along the Pine Ridge Trail. The weather didn't look the brightest but we had high hopes for the day clearing up - it didn't. Just before embarking on the hike, on a day the forecast said "possible showers," it began to sprinkle. Naturally I was fully prepared for a backpacking trip in the rain, not! I took out the black trash bag that I use as a rain guard for my backpack, put it on and I was ready to hike in my cotton t-shirt, long shorts and tennis shoes. Sarah actually has a rain guard for her backpack so she was a bit more prepared there (though I must say that neither of our backpacks got wet on this trip) however, she was wearing a tank top and short shorts. The sprinkle of a rain never became a full on rain but it did get a bit heavier and it didn't let up until we were at the end of the ten mile hike.

At the five mile mark we passed three men eating lunch. We didn't see them again until a good hour and a half after we got into the hot spring, when they finally caught up to us. The next morning one of them told us that when we passed them on the trail they thought we were hopeless. When they didn't catch up to us until the hot spring however, their opinion changed. They thought we were rock stars on a mission, traveling light and fast. Funny how first impressions can be so different from later opinions.

The two day back packing trip was great. The trail was challenging, especially in the rain. The next day it was sunny however, so it was almost like hiking a completely different trail instead of the same one twice. The hot springs were a much appreciated reward at the end of the first day and then again after a long night on a very uncomfortable ground (we didn't pick the best place to sleep, next time I'll be more selective). And oh was the whole thing beautiful! Big Sur burnt last year leaving many of the trees with black scars, creating a wonderful contrast in the scenery. Also this was Sarah's first encounter with a squirrel. I'm not sure which is cuter, the squirrel or the way she squeals with excitement when she sees squirrels, probably the later.

Tuesday evening we drove back up to Santa Cruz, where we stayed for the next two nights. Climbing Tree Nine was a fun experience. Though I have climbed it twice before and have greatly improved on my fear of heights, I still get a little tingle in my spine when I do things like that. Tree Nine is a very tall tree at the top of the UCSC campus; it is a popular climbing spot and on a clear day you can see across the bay all the way to Monterey. When we reached the top we found that people had littered it with personal items such as a bra, socks, boxers, a necklace, a few bracelets, shoe laces, a weed tin and bits of string. It was quite ugly, especially compared to how I remembered the way it looked the first time I was up there, with none of that miscellaneous human debris.

Thursday evening we left Santa Cruz, but not before we stocked up on almond butter. I had a bit left over from the summer; Sarah tasted it and likes it as much as peanut butter, if not more (we ate a LOT of peanut butter in Australia). On the drive up to El Dorado Hills we picked up Eden. Now we are three.

Friday and Saturday included two beautiful hikes in El Dorado County. I had been to University Falls and Horsetail Falls but Sarah and Eden hadn't. My visits have only been during the summer, which has the up side of hot days so you want to swim, but visiting these places in autumn has the up side of some amazing colors. University Falls is about an hour hike each way that leads you to a section of the river that holds four natural water slides, each falling into a little swimming hole. For the top three you slide down the angled rock all the way but the last one gives you a little free fall. The last one has both the scariest aspect as well as the safest. It is the safest because of the free fall, there is no way you could hit your head on the rock. It is the scariest because it has the illusion that you could miss the pool at the bottom and over the edge to your pain (if not your death). It also scary because in order to get out you need to use a rope, otherwise you may slip on the rock and fall where you don't want to go. Unfortunately we didn't go swimming this time; the shadows were long, the air was chill and the water was cold. I will be back another day.

This morning I ate a bit of my homemade blackberry ginger pie for breakfast and now we are going rafting on the South Fork American River.

One last note: it was mentioned that I failed to share an important event of the Cherry Creek experience. With all the mayhem we lost a few paddles in the river. One of them was recovered in an awesome way. We were rafting down the river when I spotted the t-grip handle of the paddle sticking straight out of the water. The blade had jammed itself into a rock at the bottom of the river. We pulled over and Daniel lassoed the paddle back to our “safekeeping.”

hiking and hot springs

Saturday, November 21, 2009 7:44 AM

November 5, 2009
On Monday October 26th we headed to South Lake Tahoe. By the time we got to the trailhead for Mt. Tallac it was mid afternoon. We didn’t know how long the hike would take, yet we decided to pack light and not bring anything. When my brother John hikes, he likes to always bring a headlamp and a lighter – just in case. I will often follow that example with the addition of a snack. I did think about bringing a headlamp, but I couldn’t be bothered, I just wanted to start walking. The hike was beautiful; we skirted along Fallen Leaf Lake then climbed Mt. Tallac. Sarah and I were hiking at a more accelerated rate than Eden so we got to the top shortly before sunset. I knew that Lake Tahoe was large but sitting up there looking out over the lake put the grandness into better perspective for me. It is very beautiful up there; it is also quite cold! As soon as the sun starting to set, the winds picked up. Sarah and I hurried down from the top, met up with Eden along the way and headed back. We hiked in the dark for while as it had gotten dark long before we reached the car. When we finally got back to the car we were ravenously hungry. I wanted to just eat what I could grab quickest but I knew that if I took a couple minutes to make something it would be all the better (as it always is). Whole wheat bread, tahini, hard boiled egg, mushroom and tomato were combined to create an egg sandwich that never tasted so good!

We set up camp not too far from the trailhead. We erected the tent, ready to be slept in with all three of our sleeping pads, sleeping bags and pillows. Then we sat in the warmth of the car until it was time to go to sleep. One thing about camping in the winter is that when the sun goes down there isn’t a whole lot to do, and it is cold. But you can’t sleep for a whole twelve hours! So we sat in the car listening to the howl of the wind! One particularly strong gust made me think to turn on the headlights to check on the tent. At that moment the tent was flying by the car. I was shocked; all I could think was “Oh. There goes t the tent.” Sarah was having a delirious moment and actually thought the tent flying by the car was another car driving by us, about to hit our tent. Eden however was out of his seat immediately to capture the run-away tent. I don’t even know how he got out of his seat so fast; one moment there, next moment gone.

It rained that night. In my half asleep delirium I was laying there worrying about getting stuck when we would try to drive away the next morning; however I was also very reluctant to get out of my warm sleeping bag. When the sun finally breached the horizon we were ready to join it. Ice clung to our tent and it was so cold we could hardly use our fingers. I was happy to have my fingerless-gloves/mittens but I also realized that I need better cold weather clothing. After breaking camp and briefly visiting the lakeside we enjoyed the warmth and bottomless coffee in Sprouts.

Next up on our agenda was Yosemite. It is a bit of a drive from Tahoe so driving took up the rest of the day. Camping in Yosemite was chilly but not as cold as Tahoe. We hiked on the Mist Trail that day, Half Dome was already closed for the season. In the evening Eden was picked up by a friend then Sarah and I left the park. And then we were two.

The next week in brief: I spent Halloween in San Francisco dressed as a cupcake. I made this costume from scratch and it was a lot of fun! I even handed out mini cupcakes to random people I encountered. I went to an REI used gear sale and found a rockin' pair of waterproof boots for $15. I am super stoked on these boots and every so often during the past two weeks I look down and think something along the lines of "man these shoes rock!" One day I spent cooking a bunch of food. I baked a pumpkin in the oven, made pumpkin soup and pumpkin butter with the flesh and roasted pumpkin seeds; hummus, eggplant pizzas, fried green tomatoes, dehydrated pears and pear rhubarb crumble. That night we had a dinner party with so many laughs that I don’t know how I ate as much as I did between the laughing fits.

I finally used the last of my toothpaste. This may seem a menial detail to be writing about however I thought it was funny enough to share. I have disliked the taste of this toothpaste since the first time I used it. I wasn't just going to throw it out though, it was good enough for the purpose it served. I used that toothpaste all summer and the taste never got better. At last, the final use! I was so excited to be rid of it! Then, in the last moment before I threw the empty tube away, a tiny piece of it flicked into my eye. What a way to go out!

My car broke. Thankfully the timing was just right, well almost. My brothers John and Daniel, Sarah and I had just driven three hours to Bridgeport when we found out about the problem with the car. We were already there so we took a dip in the Travertine Hot Springs before heading back to El Dorado Hills that night. The next day (Thursday the 5th of November) John fixed the wheel bearing and we drove back to Bridgeport. Another evening spent in a hot spring and we were happy :-)

at last

Friday, November 27, 2009 12:25 AM

During our time spent on the east side of the Sierras we visited the obsidian at Mono Lake, explored the ghost town known as Bodie, broke into the Devil’s Postpile, attempted to hike White Mountain and soaked in hot springs. The White Mountain adventure had a few interesting twists. The road was closed due to a recent snow storm. My car has four wheel drive and tires fit for snow driving, so naturally John felt we could go all the way to the trailhead anyway. We got stuck. Well, momentarily. A bit of digging and strategic placement of rocks got us out in no time; but we decided not to risk it by continuing to the trailhead. Instead, we drove back to the first bit of snow that was tricky to cross, parked the car and walked. The landscape there is barren; it looks like an alien planet, especially with the occasional patches of snow. We know we wouldn’t have time to hike all the way to the top when we started. What I didn’t count on however was getting elevation sickness. This was my first high elevation expedition so I didn’t know what to expect, even with John’s prior mention of it. At first I had a slight headache and a very mild nauseous feeling. Sarah recommended I eat something. So I did. Instantly I regretted it. Thankfully I was already sitting down. I didn’t throw up, but I came close, complete with dry heaving. Funny thing about elevation sickness is that when you descend you immediately begin to feel better. Once I found it in me to get up and start walking again, this time in the direction I had come from, I felt better. Daniel didn’t have it so easy. He felt fine until we got to the car, then the ill feeling hit him. Weird.

After a couple days back in the Placerville area Sarah and I hit the road again. Two peas in a pod. After driving fifteen minutes away from my mom’s house I realized I forgot my sleeping bag. How absentminded could I be? That is one thing that I NEED to have! I tell Sarah what I did and she says right back that she forgot hers as well. Ha! Two peas indeed :-)

That day (November 10) we drove to Kings Canyon National Park. After getting a map and information at the visitor’s center we went back to the car. Here is the critical moment where Sarah smiled at a stranger parked next to us, or so we say – about the smile being critical that is. We got in the car, discussed where we should camp, realized we needed more information and got back out of the car to into the building again. The guy parked next to us offered his knowledge of the park. We soon learned that his name is Steven, he likes to explore caves and he would like to take us flying in his four-seater airplane. Oh, he also told us the answer to our question about camp sites.

The next day we hiked, saw two bears, raided the Bear Boxes (a fantastic experience that has come to be the opposite of my car being stolen a few years back) and went on a cave tour while wearing faerie wings. Steven invited us to stay at his house for the night so we offered to cook dinner. Seemed like a good deal for each of us. In the morning we drove to the nearby airport.

As soon as we got in the plane Steven started my flying lesson by explaining that you steer with your feet. Quite a strange change for me. I assisted with the take off then flew the plane by myself for a bit before Steven took over so we could get a better look at Kings Canyon from not so far above. On the way back he took me through a couple drills with sharp diving turns by first showing me how to do it, then letting me do it myself. The pressure built up in my head and it felt like my face was trying to fall off! The small boxes on the seat next to Sarah were floating momentarily in the air. It was awesome! Landing seems to be a bit tricky; I didn’t quite get it so he had to do that part without me. It was my first time in a small airplane and it rocked my socks :-)

The second half of the eleventh of November was spent driving. Sarah was taking a turn driving through Sequoia National Park when it started snowing. What a way to experience your first snow! We took a break so she could hug a sequoia tree while watching the snowflakes float down to the ground. The forecast was ugly for the following day so we decided to leave Sequoia on our to-do list and continue driving south. Hot springs were our destination that night; unfortunately the ones we chose were no longer in existence.

Death Valley National Park was next. Death Valley is an awesome place. It was an amazing feel to it that I can’t quite explain. I just liked being there. There is a place they call The Racetrack that is a playa similar in a way to the location of Burning Man. On this flat turf you find rocks with paths leading up them that could only have gotten there by the rock scraping across the ground. Apparently no one knows exactly how the rocks move, though one speculation is it happens when it is cold and icy with a wind. We hiked around the rim of the Ubehebe Crate, played on sand dunes while wearing wings and slept near the Devil’s Golf course. I learned that not only does California hold the highest point in the United States, but also the lowest: Badwater Basin. The name Badwater comes from when a prospector was exploring with his mule, finding water in a desert should cause one to rejoice, but not this time. The water is so salty that his mule refused to drink it. He noted on his map “bad water” and the name stuck.

On the way to Joshua Tree National Park we stopped at the Kelso Sand Dunes, also known as the singing sand dunes. Complete with our faerie wings we hiked to the top, where we relaxed and enjoyed the view while playing with the sand. When you create a big enough disturbance in the sand it hums as it cascades down the dune. The best sounds I got were when I was near-running down the dune. Upon leaving the dunes we went on an unfruitful wild goose chase for some hot springs, eventually finding just outside the park for the night.

Monday the 16th of November we visited Joshua Tree. I think I would have appreciated it more if I had not just been in Death Valley. I have heard so many wonderful things about Joshua Tree that I feel like I need to visit it again someday. That being said, I did enjoy the view from atop Ryan Mountain.

That evening we finally found a usable hot spring! This one even had a sort of shower built into it. Granted, the spring was located immediately adjacent to a busy highway and had a lot of human traffic of its own. We opted to use the shower and skip the tub. Once we felt refreshed and rejuvenated we made the couple hour drive to San Diego (are you familiar with the movie Anchorman?). The next couple days were spent in the company of my brother Daniel, his girlfriend Melissa and our friend Mikie. We celebrated Melissa’s 21st birthday with a trip not just to the bars after midnight the night before, but also a trip to the nude beach during the day. Then we topped it off with a delicious lasagna dinner and lemon cake created by Daniel.

San Diego is where Sarah and I parted ways. “Adieu adieu, parting is such sweet sorrow.” It has been a grand California adventure with Sarah for a travel partner. I will miss her heaps.

Past Times Part Five: New Zealand

New Zealand is Beautiful!

Saturday April 18, 2009 9:21 PM

April 17 2009

What to say when there is so much I can say. Which stories do I choose to share through these emails and which do I leave out. I just watched a pretty sunset and am now sitting in our van parked on a beach lookout in the Catlins of the south island of New Zealand. I have been in New Zealand for two and a half weeks now, doing and seeing many things. I suppose the best thing to do is start from the beginning.

I flew into Christchurch on the afternoon of April Fool's Day. My host for the few days I was in Christchurch is a Kiwi named Craig. He picked me up from the airport and because he didn't know exactly what I looked like, he asked another woman if she was me before I came out of the airport. She had the perfect response, “No, but I can be Hillary if you give me a lift into town.” All three of us ended up driving into central Christchurch to have a coffee together before Craig dropped her off at her hostel. An excellent first impression of New Zealanders for both of us.

During my stay in Christchurch I did a number of things. The first night I went bowling and hooker spotting, that is, we drove through the “red light” district of Christchurch and pointed out all the hookers we could spot. I took advantage of the luxury of a full kitchen instead of just van facilities by cooking a few tasty things for my hosts. I attended a couchsurfing meeting at a Mexican restaurant that actually had decent looking food for being so far from Mexico; I didn't eat anything more than chips and salsa but the plates I saw going around the room looked tasty. I purchased a few warm weather clothing items at discount, which included a $2 “hobo jacket” (the zipper broke after a week of use, but it did keep me warm while it lasted), a $2 fleece vest (yep, I am a vest wearer now), shoes, three long sleeve shirts and a pair of thermals and wool socks (which I haven't and won't use while in NZ but better to be prepared and not need them than the opposite). One of the last things I did in Christchurch was participate in International Pillow Fight Day. I was super excited to be in the right place at the right time! I heard about it a few days prior and was amped up for the event. When it happened there were less than twenty of us but it was a blast!

My travel partner for this south island adventure is a fellow couchsurfer named Paul. We found each other on the site, our schedules matched well enough so we decided to split the cost by renting a campervan and exploring the country together. Once we had our campervan, which ended up a bit more difficult than expected due to the Easter holiday that neither of us remembered nor anticipated would cause us any trouble, we headed north up the east coast. The next day consisted of a short exploration around Kaikoura then a 6 hour hike up the 1607 meter high Mt. Fyffe.

That first week on the road consisted of wine tasting in the Marlborough region where they specialize in Sauvignon Blanc. Driving between Picton and Havelock on Queen Charolette Rd where the views of the Marlborough Sounds are astounding. Hiking in Able Tasman National Park along Goat Bay. Seeing the Te Waikoropupu Springs, said to be the clearest springs. Seeing Harwoods Hole, the biggest cave in the southern hemisphere. Seeing many waterfalls. Seeing the gorgeous Hokitika Gorge in the morning and wishing it was a hot afternoon so I could swim in the aqua blue water. Hiking, cooking delicious food in the van and saying “wow” “that is so pretty” “how beautiful” and other similar things more times than I can count. It was a fantastic week!

The second week included seeing Franze Joseph Glacier, a glacier that is strangely located in a rain forest. Decided to camp for a night in the wrong place as when the rain stopped the mosquitoes entered our van en mass. I was bitten maybe twice, Paul on the other hand was bitten a few more times; including two bites on his lips that became so swollen that it looked like he had been punched. Camped another night on the summit of the highest paved road in New Zealand with a great view out over the valley that holds Queenstown. While in the Otago region, where they boast about their Pinot Noir, we decided to go wine tasting again. On our way to the first winery we picked up two young female Kiwi hitchhikers. We told them we'll take them to Cromwell if they don't mind stopping a few times before we get there to go wine tasting. It turned out to be quite a fun time. They had never been wine tasting before and one of them, Ana, took a great liking to it immediately. She had thought that people only made up the flavors in wine, so they could sound sophisticated or something. Then she tried multiple good wines in a row and found that in truth each wine does taste different, sometimes by a lot, sometimes by a little. Taking them along made it even more fun.

Still in the second week we headed to Milford Sound. I found the hype about it led to a bit of disappointed, same as the Eiffel Tower. However the two hour drive from Te Anau was so beautiful that it didn't matter. Let me clarify, Milford Sound is pretty, but I was expecting more by all the talk. In the Clifden Caves I got the glowworm cave experience that I wanted, and for free! I wish I had had someone to explore the caves with because the part that I saw was really cool; well worth the short diversion off the main road. I walked among 1000+ year old Totara trees. Saw Lake Huaroko, the deepest lake in New Zealand that actually goes below sea level. And again lots of hiking, cooking delicious food in the van and saying “wow” “that is so pretty” “how beautiful” and other similar things more times than I can count. Then we went to Invercargill.

The Lonely Planet guidebook says that Invercargill is mostly avoided by travelers, or else they just stop by to restock provisions before continuing to other places. I however had a very positive experience in Invercargill. While we were in Queenstown I met a potter at the weekend market (a pottery maker that is, not a relation to Harry Potter). John invited us to his place when we pass through Invercargill. Originally we had planned on skipping the city, but with the invitation and being a little ahead of schedule we decided to give the city a try. This turned out to be a very good decision. John is another very accommodating and generous Kiwi; the type of person that you are glad to have encountered. He showed us around his studio where he not only makes his pottery but also produces the clay he works with from clay he digs out of the ground. His house is filled with pottery that he has made over the years as is his kitchen where all his plates, bowls, cups, dishes, etc. are pottery creations. Eating at his house was a dream come true for me! I could hardly contain my enthusiasm about using these pottery creations for everyday use (not that I tried to contain it). When I was growing up my mom had a set of pottery dishes that she kept in a cabinet, never to be used. I wanted to use them many times but it was always put off to another day. That day never came with that set, but now here in New Zealand that dream finally became reality. He even gave me a pair of cups to take home! Aside from the pottery I also learned a few things, like an intro to wool spinning (fun once you get it going but very tricky when you're a novice) and a few tasty recipes to take back home with me.

We started exploring the Catlins today, including a visit to Slope point, the southernmost point of the south island of New Zealand. There are small islands that are most southerly but other than those, that is the most southerly you can get on a mainland before Antarctica. Pretty cool I think. Tomorrow is the first day of week three. I can't wait to see what is in store!

Adventures in New Zealand

Sunday, May 3, 2009 1:55 PM

May 2

I have arrived in the North Island and oh what a journey.

Where I left you last time was sitting on a beautiful lookout in the Catlins after dark, it was the fourteenth day of my south island road trip. I am not laying in a most comfortable bed in Opotiki. Before I get into the more recent events though I should recount the in between moments, well at least a few of them.

After waking up to a beautiful sunrise in the Catlins that Saturday morning that started week three of south island road trip, we headed to the trail head for the Catlins River Walk. This hike is said to be a five hour way one trek. I could have done it in five hours return but it took me five and a half hours for the whole thing which included a 15 min break at end of the path before I headed back to the beginning. It was a great hike; the path is not man made in the sense that it is packed down with rocks as many paths are, but instead it is maintained as a dirt track filled with tree roots and stairs. This keeps you alert as to where you are stepping plus makes for much better scenery, in my opinion at least. During this hike I didn't see one other person, it provided me with some excellent think time. That night we camped at Cannibal Bay, the name of which makes you think it might be a place better avoided. Thankfully however we didn't run into any cannibals :-) The next day we headed to Dunedin.

When you travel you are bound to meet people from different parts of the world. Most of the time they flow by like the water in a river but there will also be those that stay long enough to exchange contact information in the hopes of staying in touch, and perhaps even seeing each other again one day. Last year while I was in Panama I met a Kiwi girl named Ayla, before we parted ways we exchanged our contact information. Naturally then, finding myself in her home country and planning a route through her city (Dunedin), we arranged to see each other again.

During my visit to Dunedin I stayed with Ayla and her four flatmates. Being students themselves they lived on a street right next to the university along with many other students. The living dynamic they had is one of the best I have seen yet. They all got along really well; they even shopped for food together splitting the bill and often ate dinner together.

My first full day in Dunedin I woke up very early, before anyone else in the house. It was a full day of attending a psychology class with Joe, where I learned about Walter "ice pick" Freeman. (An interesting story if you have some free time to research him.) Walking around the city then having a few drinks and an amalgamation of food for dinner followed by a few games. After everyone else went to bed I found myself still awake: first and last one awake. I think this was because I was stocked up on sleep from going to bed so early in the van and getting nine or ten hours of sleep each night.

The next day we took a day trip to see the albatross. They are massive! I had seen photos of them before but until I saw them in person I really didn't comprehend just how big a bird they are.

The next couple days consisted of driving to Mt. Cook, hiking and driving back to Christchurch. When we got to Christchurch I headed back to Craig and Anthony's flat (the same people I had stayed with three weeks prior) and Paul went his own way. My South Island New Zealand road trip had ended (aside from the drive up to the ferry).

I found myself lucky with timing as I was able to be in Christchurch on a very important day for New Zealand: ANZAC day. I woke up at 4:45am to attend the dawn service in Cathedral Square. It was quite something to see a few thousand people gather together before the sun has even shown her face. Many of these people had red poppies pinned to their shirts. Upon asking what the significance of the poppy is I was told that the numerous dead bodies from the battle were left on the field creating excellent fertilizer for the poppies of the next season. Google before and after photos. At the end of the day I cooked buckwheat sweet potato pancakes and pear ginger pie for a Breakfast For Dinner mini party. If, during your adult life, you haven't eaten breakfast foods for dinner you are missing out. It is especially fun when you're with friends; though that is how it goes in general with eating.

Sunday the 26th of April is the day I rented a car by myself for the first time ever! I thought it was exciting, and still is in fact as I drive around in my snappy Mazda Familia rental car. My drive around the south island included 4229 kilometers, yet to see how my north island adventure will compare.

After I signed the papers, was given the keys and said good bye to Christchurch I headed north to catch an evening ferry to the north island. Just outside the city I came upon two hitch hikers and of course I picked them up! Clara is from Germany and Mac is from New Zealand. It made the drive much more fun having them along. We stopped at a few wineries for tasting; again I introduced this novel activity to a pair of hitch hikers. Then hurried up to Picton for my 6pm ferry crossing on which there were a couple of stowaways. I arrived on the north island of New Zealand in the city of Wellington around 9:30pm. It had been quite an eventful day to begin my north island adventure.

The next day wasn't nearly as eventful as it was quite rainy day in Wellington. I explored the Te Papa museum, which is a perfect thing to do on a rainy day in Wellington. Took care of some photo uploading for your viewing pleasure (www.snapfish.com sign in with email: shiroi_2000@yahoo.com and password: roadtrip) then cooked a tasty pumpkin curry for my hosts Natalie and Drew.

From Wellington I headed to Martinborough and the surrounding area for some wine tasting but also found my way to an especially good chocolate shop. They have some crazy flavors! Chilli, chilli lime, rose, earl grey, geranium, rose and pepper, sea salt, cracked pepper, ginger, coconut, and the list goes on. Mostly they were dark chocolate but they also had some with milk or even white chocolate. All of which were available for tasting! It was amazing. I think dark chocolate with lemongrass and dark chocolate with cardamom were my favorites.

I slept in my car that night. Found a parking spot by the beach in Napier and gave sleeping in the car a try. I have to say, it wasn't that great. This car is just not meant to be slept in. I managed by changing position many times but it isn't something I wish to continue doing for the next couple weeks. Which has brought me to the conclusion that I should attempt to couchsurf more often that I had planned on, even though I don't have a cell phone and figure out what I am doing on a day by day basis. I figure it will work when it does and when it doesn't, I can manage in my car.


After a day of wine, cheese, olive oil and various other treat tasting in the Hawk's Bay region I drove up to Gisborne. The next morning Helen and I drove out to the Rere Rock Slide which was awesome! There is a big rock slope that has a grade of about 45 degrees over which the river flows. It isn't exactly smooth so it is best to have something to slide down on top of. Despite the fact that we were there at 10 in the morning and it wasn't exactly hot I jumped to it. After sliding down three times on top of an inner tube with lots of laughs and excited yelps I had random clumps of thick green algae clinging to my body in various places. Well worth the drive out and cold skin that made itself apparent once the adrenaline settled down.

Upon leaving Gisborne I drove up the east coast, stopping off at East Cape, the most easterly point in New Zealand. When I got to the cape it was raining, but hey I didn't drive all the way there for nothing! So I put my jacket on and hiked up the trail to the light house. When I was done there I headed to Opotiki, which is where I am now.

Whew! This email took way too long to write! Hopefully I won't wait so long next time and therefore won't have as much to write :-)

More stories from The Land of the Long White Cloud

Tuesday, May 12, 2009 8:11 PM

I have been writing notes about what I want to write about in this email on a notepad I have. There is a LOT to say! I think I will have to cut some things shorter than I would like and omit a few others - just to save you from sitting in front of this screen for even longer than you are already about to. Also, because I have written some of these things down once I forget whether or not I have typed them up for you to read. Therefore you may have read a few of these things once before. Feel free to skip it over, or reread it.

ROAD SIGNS
Both Australia and New Zealand have copious amounts of road safety signs. They differ quite a bit though. In Australia the signs mainly consist only of words, such as “Survive This Drive Arrive Alive” and “Take A Rest And Refresh” and “Tired Drivers Die. Take A Break” and “Drowsy Drivers Die.” I saw a few signs in Australia with photos that were very graphic like a pedestrian being hit by a car; those signs however were typically in bus stops and not posted on the side of the highways. New Zealand also has signs with these words but they are more often than not complimented with pictures and the style varies by region. Some areas have pictures are cartoon characters, like a kiwifruit wearing sun glasses accompanied by the words “Sun Strong? Shades On.” Other areas are more dramatic, like a picture of an ambulance with a paramedic with the words “Who's going to drive you home?” or a picture of a driver hitting the steering wheel with their face with the words “Buckle up.”

FOOD
It is Feijoa season right now. (In the states these fruits are called Pineapple Guava but I have never seen or eaten one.) Since my introduction to Feijoas two weeks ago I have eaten SOO many! More than I could even try to look back and count. My first one was in Wellington in a fruit salad. The flavor for me was take it or leave, nothing too special. My host in Gisborne had a tree in her yard so there were plenty to be eaten. I ate one, then another and the flavor really started to grow on me. During my two days stayed with Helen and Biddy in Gisborne I ate about two bowls of these tasty feijoas and they gave me a bag of them for the road. In Opotiki I made a feijoa crumble with these feijoas as well as ate them by themselves. On my drive to Taupo I bought a 2 kilo bag for $2 then on my drive back to Opotiki I stopped twice to pick up feijoas from road side trees. When I arrived back in Opotiki two other people had brought bags of feijoas as well so there were plenty to go around! We made two feijoa crumbles and I still had some to take with me to Kerikeri. I finally ate my last feijoa yesterday. I am crossing my fingers that customs will allow me to bring in the bottled feijoas I made.

I have also eaten a LOT of avocados in the last two weeks. When I left Gisborne I stopped at a fruit and veg shop that had cheap avocados, so I purchased six small ones for $2. Then in Opotiki I was staying with Grant, who is an avocado farmer. I was eating them a lot on bread and rice cakes or with salad. Then I got to reading Grant's avocado cook book. Did you know that avocado and banana go extremely well together? Try this smoothie, it is delicious:

place in a blender:

one avocado

one banana

2 teaspoons honey

about 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (I was using vanilla bean so the flavor will be a bit different with extract but still tasty)

at least one glass of milk.

Blend and enjoy!

The less milk you put in the thicker it will be, so just add more milk to get the consistency you desire. Remember though, the more milk you add the more the milk flavor will be apparent and the flavor of the banana, avocado and vanilla will drown, so just taste it along the way.

THE WORLD IS SO SMALL
If you pay close enough attention, the world really is quite small. Sometimes when you aren't even looking you realize this. Here are two recent examples of what I mean. One: When I was walking along the beach at Cathedral Cove I met some people from Mt Aukum, California. Mt. Aukum is a small town right near the small town where I grew up. Two: One of my hosts, Grant, has been on the river that I work in California. He enjoyed it so much in fact that he named his orchard after one of the rapids.


PLACES TO SLEEP
People keep telling me that I am brave or courageous to be traveling by myself. I think that comment has a bit to do with my gender and not just the fact that I am solo. I don't really think of myself as courageous. Though I guess it depends on your definition of courageous. My good friends as dictionary.com define courage as "The quality of mind or spirit that enables a person to face difficulty, danger, pain, etc., without fear" With that definition I suppose I do have courage because I see myself as having more of a lack of fear than a sense of courageousness.


I have been using couchsurfing.com pretty successfully here on the north island. Though of course schedules don't always match and with day by day planning it can be difficult. When I headed towards the Coromandel Peninsula I didn't know where I was going to sleep that night. A hostel is always an option I know, but I figured I would just sleep in my car again. The closer I got to my destination the more I knew that I really didn't want to try to sleep in my car another night; I would much rather sleep the whole night through in a comfortable bed, or at least somewhere flat so that I can stretch out. It was suggested to me a few weeks back to just stop at a farm and offer a trade: a bit of work for a spot to sleep. I figured this would be the best time to try out this idea.

I started looking for a suitable place to ask. But how do you pick a suitable place? What makes this one look more likely to accept me than that one? I had no idea. I drove by a few then came to an area that had no farms. At first I thought that is just my luck, I decide to try this then I run out of places. But of course I came to another area of farmland. I passed one that had a little swing set and slide. I thought that might have been a good place to stop because they have kids so maybe they'd be more likely to accept, then again, maybe that would make them less likely to accept a stranger into their home. I don't know how to pick a place that would be more likely to accept me! I started getting a little anxious. Then I passed a farm with a house about 200m up a gravel road on a bit higher ground with a good sized pile of bailed and wrapped hay. I passed it and thought, “That looks like a good enough place... I should go back.” So I turned around and drove slowly up the gravel road. As I got closer I got more nervous. What should say? How would be the best way of presenting my request? What if they say no? What if they say yes? I figured even if I have to ask ten different places, one of bound to say yes so if they say no here I'll just head down the road and ask someone else.

When I got close to the house a man and a woman (whose names I soon knew to be Andrew and Wendy) were outside obviously busy but curious who was driving up to their house. As I got out of the car they came over to find out what I was up to. They had a skeptical sort of look on their faces; they later told me that they expected me to be trying to sell them something. Our conversation went something like this:

“Hi. I'm Hillary.”

“I'm Andrew.” With a hand shake.

“I'm Wendy.” Another hand shake.

“I was wondering if I could trade a bit of work for a spot to sleep tonight?”

They look at each other, not really knowing what to say

“Well I don't know. What do you think?”

“I don't know. I guess that sounds alright. Yeah, okay!”

“Okay”

“Awesome! Thanks!”

They then gave me a pair of coveralls, good warm socks, gumboots (aka rain boots) and a wool jacket to wear while we herded in the cows. I jumped on the back of a quad with Wendy and we brought in the cows. About half way through it started to rain so we were pretty wet by the end. All the while Wendy told me about cows and how things go on the dairy farm. The next morning I got to help milk the cows. Overall it was a very educational experience. I think I slowed them down a bit more than helped them, but they seemed to enjoy telling me about how things work. There is heaps more I could say about my experience on the dairy farm but instead of going on about it I'll just state that I am fortunate to have chosen their farm to stop at. I am glad to have met these sincere and trusting people.



HIKING
I have done a fair bit of hiking during this trip, especially on the south island. All have offered beautiful scenery. The majority of these hikes have been among trees. The Tongariro Crossing hike is completely different though. A lot of the hike is barren and when you reach the top there is ice on the ground and a freezing wind and tears at your clothing. For this hike I finally got to use those thermals I purchased in Christchurch! The hike was amazing though, especially walking through the crater; it was like walking on another planet. Thankfully I choose a time to go when the path isn't packed with tourists; there were still a good many other people there but I am told that the foot traffic is getting quite low as the weather is getting colder.

A POINT OF CONCERN
This has been mentioned to me and I have observed it in both Australia and New Zealand. The birds of prey like to get a free meal by eating road kill. This is becoming a point of concern because the new generation is not learning how to hunt. Also I have seen a number of these birds dead on the road, which is no wonder because they wait till last possible second to move away from the dead carcass, if they move at all. Then when they do finally fly away from it they are not very swift and often fly the wrong way (in front of, instead of away from, the car).

GREEN KIWIS
Nearly every house I have been to here in New Zealand has some sort of green waste program i.e. feeding kitchen waste to animals or composting it. Kelly, my host in Taupo, had an interesting program worked out. His kitchen was located in the corner of the house, therefore had windows on two walls. Out the window above the sink is where vegetable scrapes was thrown, where it landed in a planter box to decompose. Out the window above the counter is where leftovers were thrown, where it landed on the ground to be eaten my his dogs.

A FEW COMPARISONS
In New Zealand toll free numbers start with 0800 vs. in the USA starting with 1800
In New Zealand (and Australia) when you put a pot of water on the stove to cook noodles or something you bring it to “the boil” vs. in the USA you bring it to “a boil.”
In New Zealand they have relief teachers vs. in the USA they have substitute teachers.

BATHS
I want to get this finished and sent but I promised I would mention my wonderful baths I have had recently. So I will be brief in description.

When I have a house of my own I am definitely creating an outside bath heated by fire. I had the opportunity to use one of these baths a few times and it is amazing! Especially with a nice glass of wine while it is raining, wow.

You just fill the bath about half way, light up a fire in a hole you have underneath the bathtub and wait for the water to get hot. Then you add as much cold water as you like to get the temperature just right. It stays warm for hours because of the coals underneath it. Just make sure to have something to sit on (i.e. a rub mat or flat piece of wood) or else you'll burn your bum!

Home

Sunday, May 24, 2009 6:53 PM

I have arrived home safely after my six months of adventure in Australia and New Zealand. Before I returned to northern California I took a weekend layover in Los Angeles, California. I saw a few friends I haven't seen in much too long and had an enjoyable time. I even got to see a gang of paparazzi accosting a famous person! After Los Angeles I headed to Santa Cruz for a few days then up to the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, where I grew up.

I have heard a number of times about getting a culture shock upon returning home from living in another country. I don't remember experiencing that when I returned from Europe and I don't have it now either. Mostly it feels like I didn't even leave, more like I was just here last week instead of half a year ago. There is one big adjustment I am getting used though: driving. After driving on the other side of the road for six months I am finding myself doing the same things I did at the beginning of my time in Australia. When friends were driving me in Los Angeles I kept thinking that cars were on the wrong side of the road and they weren't cutting a corner tight or wide enough, then I would realize that it was alright because I am back to driving on the right side of the road, not the left. In Santa Cruz it wasn't so bad because I am so familiar with the roads and had been back a few days. I finally drove a friend's car after being back for a week (I don't have a car). Don't worry, I didn't have any trouble remembering where I belonged on the road. I did however have trouble with the turn signal because it is on the opposite side.

Anyway, for the next four months I am working as a white water rafting guide on the South Fork of the American River and perhaps the Middle Fork as well. I have set up my camp for the summer and I'm happy to be back.

Take care!

Past Times Part Four: Australia

Australia

Wednesday, November 12, 2008 2:28 PM

Hello All,
I am now in Australia! Just wanted
to let everyone know that I got
here safe. More to come later.

---Hillary

Here I am in Australia

Friday, Januray 9, 2009 5:50pm

First off, I have compiled this email through many different short writing sessions, with a few longer ones thrown in there too; therefore there isn't exactly a flow, rather, there are many thoughts put together in a somewhat random sort of way. Enjoy... or not, whatever you please :-)

Sporty

We went to a soccer game in Sydney. It was a lot of fun. Sydney FC vs Queensland Roar. My first real live sports game, ever. Well, I went to a high school girls soccer game a year and a half ago and that was the first time I ever watched a full sports game. So technically his was my second game, though it was my first professional game. I think I shall go again sometime, especially if I could set near/within the diehard fans. We were singing lots of songs and dancing, and they all threw their beers up in the air when our team scored. There was so much energy going around! Good fun.

For a moment though, I was the highest person in Australia. Mt. Kosciusko is the highest point in Australia at 2228m above sea level. Getting to the top was a really easy "hike," if you can even call it that, it was more of a walk. We drove most of the way. Then the 9km trail (roughly 6 miles) wasn't much of a grade and you could pretty much drive a car all the way up the path, if they allowed it. The walk back was a bit more difficult that the walk up. That however, was only due to my previous injury. The last two miles were a killer on my hip. I hurt it in yoga (yeah, I know, lame) about eleven months ago and while it is much better now I still have problems now and then. A 12 mile hike didn't agree well with my hip. At least my foot wasn't hurting though! That is a more recent problem. For some reason my left hurt really hurts if I do any length of walking in my Chaos. Which is really a bummer because that means I have to wear my running shoes all the time, or go bare foot. At least I have my running shoes though, I ALMOST didn't bring them.

I tried surfing for the first time. Well, sort of. I played with a surf board at least. I paddled around a bit but didn't try to stand up as I could hardly even catch a wave laying down. It was alright but I think I should take an actual lesson next time.

Driving in Australia

First off, my brother John and I are driving around the country in a van whose name is Blue. Blue is a 1990 Mitsubishi with 265,000km and equipped with nearly everything: camp stoves, cups, plates, bowls, utensils, water jug, extra fuel container, easily converted bed/seat, storage underneath the bed, mini-fridge, dice hanging from the rear view mirror, etc. Some previous owner has taken the time and care to line the inside with material. The color scheme is, interesting. Red and black curtains and trim on various parts of the doors and such, red carpet while all the inside walls and ceiling are adorned with a cream, brown and gold material. One thing it doesn't have is AC, but that hasn't been a problem so far, as long as we keep the windows down. While visiting Jervis Bay (about three hours south of Sydney) we met two British boys, Mick and Niall, that needed a ride along to Adelaide. And then we were four.

Okay, now the story. Australia has a strict quarantine between states for fruits and vegetables due to fruit flys and various other pests, but the signs simply state fruit flys. We had just purchased a bunch of fruit and some vegetables in New South Wales when we came up to a sign stating "eat your fruit now" and "fine apply" and other things, written on a number of signs. John and I started gorging ourselves on a bunch of apricots, and a couple oranges. We decided to hide the two kilo bag of apples, four bananas and last orange. But we never came to any sort of check point. I felt gross, stuffed with fruit and for nothing! At least it was a funny story. But wait there's more! We camped out for the night, eating tuna sandwiches for dinner and cold cereal for breakfast. The sandwiches included some celery, cucumber, tomato and lettuce and the cereal included banana. If we had only known what was to come we would have changed those menus. Se la vie.

As we come to border to Southern Australia we come across more such signs. This time we don't pay as much attention due to the last time it not being a big deal. Then we come to another sign warning us that a check station is coming up. Again we start eating apricots! We roll up to the check point. "Do you have any fruit or vegetables?" the woman asks. "Yes a lot" John answers. "Ah" the woman answers with a sad face. "Even garlic?" asks John. "What does the sign say? All fruit and vegetables" she answers. So we decide it is lunch time. She doesn't really want us to stop and eat our food there, but she lets us leave if we drive back up the road a bit. In our possession we have: half a cucumber, one tomato, one orange, two bananas, two large mushrooms, one yellow onion, one red onion, two bulbs of garlic, two kilos of apples, two kilos red potatoes, two kilos yellow potatoes, one bag of dried apricots, half a bag of raisins, a quarter of a bag of dates, a nearly full head of lettuce, a quarter of a head of red cabbage, a nearly full bunch of celery, a nearly full one kilo bag of carrots. (fyi: one kilo=2.2 pounds) We weren't sure about the dried fruit, I thought they would probably take it because they took my dried banana at the airport. We sat there eating: half a cucumber, one orange, two bananas, three cloves of garlic, five apples, a quarter of a bag of dates, about half the bunch of celery, all but two of the carrots. The British boys ate the bananas and one stalk of celery, they didn't care much for fruit and veggies. Or should I write vegies? That is how they spell it here. Oh and by the way, I didn't eat the raw garlic, John did. He is crazy.

A few funny things were said while we were stuffing our faces with food that we really didn't want to throw away. Mick: You should just eat it all, them vomit on her and say, here's your bloody vegetables. Also from Mick: when she asks if we have anything else I am going to say, 'Oh no, nothing, just my own personal fruit fly farm."

We drive back up to the check point and hand to her: one tomato, two large mushrooms, one yellow onion, one red onion, a large bag of apples, two kilos red potatoes, two kilos yellow potatoes, a nearly full head of lettuce, a quarter of a head of red cabbage, a few stalks of celery, and two carrots. She glances at the bag and says "I don't think I need all this" Our jaws drop. She walks away, and comes back with the lettuce and carrots as well as tells us the celery was okay too. She THEN hands us a pamphlet on what is okay and what it not. The dried fruit way okay, along with carrots, celery and leafy veggies. Ugh.


Today was my first time driving on the left side of the road. Not nearly as difficult as I expected it would be. A few things get me, like when a car is coming towards me. Even though I am on the left side and they are on the right, therefore in our proper places on the road, there has been a handful of times when my heart jumps just for an instant because I see a car coming towards me on the right side of the road. Then I realize we are where we should be and they are not going to hit me. John keeps driving into the right side of the road because he stops paying attention and goes into autopilot. So far he has only run one car off the road. We have much more driving to do, we'll see how it goes :-) Later note: John has stopped driving into the other side of the road.

We were told to avoid driving over snakes. In the event that they do not die there is the possibility of them making their way up to the engine, where they will lay in wait for you to open up your hood. You will be merely trying to check the oil but instead you will get bitten by a snake.

Australia is all about road safety. Along the road there are MANY signs promoting road safety. The signs tell you to "rest, revive, survive" and "stop creeping over the speed limit" and many other things.

There are some REALLY ugly colored cars here. I have no idea what people were thinking when they painted the cars those colors and even less idea what people were thinking when they purchases these cars. They also have a common car here that I find the shape to be an eye-sore. I believe they are called yutes; the front half has the appearance of an economy car while the back half has the appearance of a pick-up truck. Ugh!

Food

I just had a wonderful meal. I have stayed at this French guy's house (Jean-Pierre) twice now, for a total of 9 days. He is a really interesting guy. We left his house yesterday, however John was still waiting for his bank card to come in the mail to his house. The card came today so stopped by around 6 to pick it up. He has two French guys, a Korean guy and a German girl staying at this house now. (are you familiar with couchsurfing.com?) John got to talking and we ended up staying for dinner. My first Australian bar-b-que and we even had kangaroo. It was delicious. I don't eat meat very much and I am really not sad about that because every time I eat it, I think, "okay, I'm not missing much." But we had lamb shanks, kangaroo steaks, and beef sausage. They were all delicious. Then grilled corn on the cob and a salad that consisted of mixed greens, tomato and lime juice. I had never had a salad with lime juice, I highly recommend it. When we were finished with that the potatoes were done baking so we ate those and diced up cantaloupe, though not at the same time ;-) Not only was the meal great because the food was delicious but because of the people too, speaking different languages, laughing and talking.

Food is way more expensive here than it is in California. The meat tastes better here though, probably because the cows aren't corn fed.

Cooking

My brother Daniel has been posting many photos of delicious food he has been making back home in California. Yeah, we're a family of cooks. I finally got jealous enough that I sought out the means to make cookies. They turned out quite tasty. Here are the recipes I created.

Ginger Chocolate Chip Cookies
1 1/2/ c sugar
1c butter
2 eggs
3c all purpose four
1/2t baking soda
1/2t baking powder
1/4t salt
1c small chocolate chips
1T finely grated fresh ginger

Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs, mix well. Combine flours, soda, powder and salt. Add ginger and chocolate chips to the butter mix. Add the flour mix; stir until just combined. Bake at 350F for about 11 minutes. I really like the ginger flavor so adding more wouldn't taste even better.

Date Nut Cookies
1 1/2/ c sugar
1c butter
2 eggs
1c whole wheat flour
3c all purpose four
1/2t baking soda
1/2t baking powder
1/4t salt
1/2T cinnamon
1t almond extract
1/2c chopped walnuts
2c chopped dates
2/3c rice milk

Mix chopped dates and rice milk. While preparing the rest, periodically stir the dates and rice milk. Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs, mix well. Combine flours, soda, powder, salt and cinnamon. Add extract, walnuts and dates to the butter mix. Add the flour mix in two parts; stir until just combined. Bake at 350F for about 13 minutes. Taste great the next day too!

Words

Yes, Australia and the USA both speak English but there are many little differences, aside the accents. Here are some of the different titles we use. Australian word first, then USA's.

goon - box wine
jam - jelly or jam
jelly - jell-o
keycard - debit card. A keycard is a bank card that does not have a Visa or MasterCard symbol on it. These symbols on bank cards are a fairly new thing to Australia.
chooks - chickens. I like this one especially.
root - to have sex with someone. That song with the lyrics "root, root, root for the home team" is definitely not sung here.
thongs - flip flops. This one can create a fun conversation for Australians visiting the states.
trolley - shopping cart
overtaking - passing. This is in reference to when you are driving.
maths - math.

The spelling of words is different as well.
vegies - veggies
color - colour. There are many words with the addition of the letter "u" in Australian English vs. USA's English.
cherrie - cherry
enrol - enroll. I have seen a number of words use one consonant where USA uses two.
parking lot - car park
a parking spot - a park

Couchsurfing

I have been using couchsurfing.com the whole time here. The majority of the people I have met through this site continue the trend of being great individuals. One host I want to mention in particular is Jean-Pierre (JP). In meeting people I often see characteristics in them that I either want to improve in myself or try to avoid. JP is one of those people that has characteristics that I want to improve in myself. He is an extremely kind, giving and trusting guy. In one of our conversations he said that someone has to raise the bar of trust and others will follow that lead. If he trusts fully for ten years with no one taking advantage and then someone robs him, then it was worth it AND he should be good for another ten years of trusting. He has opens doors at his apartment, often letting a number of people into his home at one time. JP told us that he has even let people stay there without ever meeting them by leaving the key at a local fruit stand across the street while he was on holiday somewhere else. Amazing. I strive to follow his lead of trust.

Another couchsurfing experience happened in an unexpected manner. We drove to a woman's house for conversation and ended up staying for two nights! She (Robbie) lives on a great little spot of land that is lushishly green and is also the home to her animals that include horses and chickens. She even took me on a horseback ride one day!

Tourists

John and I saw finally saw kangaroos! I had been here for about a month, John for a bit more than a week. John was driving when I spotted them. We weren't exactly sure which direction we wanted to be going so he kept driving to ask a group of girls for directions. After they told us where to go we went back to look at the kangaroos before we went where they told us. When we drove by them again we told them that was the first time seeing kangaroos. They were surprised. I understand that though, it would be the same if someone in California told me they just saw a deer for the first time. Both animals are abundant in their respective environments and both behave in much the same way as well.

Random Things

The toilets in Australia have much less water than in USA. Robbie jokingly said that when she visited USA she was afraid her hand would get in the water when she went to wipe. The toilets also have a half flush and a full flush button. This makes sense being that Australia is all about water conservation.

Within a town, the price for fuel is within a couple cents difference. Unlike in USA where you will see a difference of fifteen cents directly across the street.

In Sydney, the traditional thing to do on Christmas afternoon is go to the beach and perhaps have a bar-b-que. Also in Sydney the girls' attire to go out not something that would be found attractive AT ALL in California.

Some stores use the same method for shopping carts (trolleys) that I saw in Italy, I was excited to see this. When you want to use a shopping cart you must insert a coin to release a chain that attaches the cart to a row of carts. When you are done with the cart you attach the chain to another cart again and you get your coin back. This really cuts back on people leaving their carts all over the parking lot.

I saw a pair of buskers that were really cool. The girl was playing a violin while the guy was playing a didgeridoo and a guitar, simultaneously!

A story of puppies. John and I had the fortune of playing with some adorable ten week old poodle and spaniel mix puppies. It was the first time for them in a leash and we got to take them to the beach for their first time. It was really fun letting them explore how the water comes up on the sand then goes back with each wave. They were exhausted and went to sleep when we took them home.


I have been here two months now and this email is very late in the coming. I just haven't been in much of a writing mood while here. That being said, I don't know how many more of these emails I will be writing. Feel free to email me whenever. Take care!


---Hillary

Goodbye Australia

Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:39 PM

This email is late in the coming as I am no longer in Australia. However, I had already started writing it a while back so now I figure, “better late than never.” Right?

Every time I have asked someone about something that has to do with a map they write on the map while telling me information. For example, I asked a park ranger which of two paths he would recommend. He takes out a pen, grabs a pamphlet with a map in it and proceeds to tell me about all the paths in the area while drawing all over the map. I am not sure if this is part of some type of training they get here in Australia or what but it bugs me. For one, often times I don't want to keep the map and they aren't going to put a map that has been drawn all over back with the others, so it is a waste. For another, if I do want to keep the map, I want to keep it clean, without markings all over it.

Hiking in Central Australia. See emails already written.

FOOD

Sarah is a great cook. She has been like our own personal chef. She really knows how to mix her herbs and spices to make food taste delicious. Before traveling with her I did not eat raw red onion but due to the way she makes salads taste SO good I have adopted this new food into my diet.

One day we were driving later than usual and Sarah decided to start dinner before we stopped for the night. This proved to be much more difficult than she anticipated, especially when we turned onto an unsealed road. From this experience she came up with the idea for a new cooking show: van cooking. Not only do you have limited resources to work with but you also have to deal with an unstable working environment as the vehicle drives over dips and bumps.

BEAUTIFUL PLACES

We went on a trip to Fraser Island, said to be the biggest sand island. Instead of renting a 4WD vehicle or taking a tour we went to cheaper route and decided to ride the barge over then walk where we wanted to go on the island. Our first destination was Lake McKenzie, the most popular lake on the island. This lake is made from rain water and therefore is extremely clear. The sand is white, the first few meters of water are a crystal clear light blue then the center of the lake is a darker blue. The color contrast is amazing! After playing in this paradise we decided to hike to a more secluded lake to sleep. This is the time where I had my first encounter with leeches. These tiny blood suckers don't hurt but the thought of them sucking my blood creeps me out, plus they leave an open wound that is resistant to the idea of coagulating. The leeches however were the least of our annoyances; much worse were the mosquitoes. We stupidly decided to not bring a tent or any type of mosquito protection, and we sorely regretted this decision. What we had for a “camp” was a tarp laid on the sand near the shore of the lake then we slept in our sleeping bags on top on it. It had been our experience that the mosquitoes subside after dusk, but on Fraser Island they never sleep. I spent my night trying to hide my head under the thin layer of material that is my sarong. The mosquitoes still bit through it, but it at least it cut back the veracity of the attack. My sleeping bag is too warm for the climate on Fraser Island. I couldn't stay asleep while under because I was too hot. Let's just say it wasn't a very restful night. Was it worth it? Yes, but if I went again I would bring a tent!

Byron Bay is one of my favorite places (that I visited) in Australia. It reminds me of Santa Cruz, except it is full of tourists. During the day the place is bustling with beautiful people clad in beach attire. The ocean is fantastic for swimming: water that is clear and a perfect temperature, a beautiful sandy beach. One day I even had the fortune of being at the beach when it started to rain. The beach was full of sun bathers that quickly made a mass Exodus, but I headed for the water. I adore swimming in the rain; it is so invigorating!

AUSTRALIA POST

I like to send postcards to people while I am traveling. While I am glad that I have sent the ones that I have sent so far, I am also resentful that I gave the Australian Post so much money (each post card takes a $1.35 stamp) because I am not happy with their system. I left a few things of mine, mostly clothing, in Adelaide while I continued to travel around Australia. When it came time to have my things sent to me in Sydney I didn't think it would take more than nine days to travel a distance that can be driven in one day. To make this long story short, because I am really just done thinking about it, I did not receive my package before I left Australia. Instead I am relying on a very nice Australian girl who offered to pick up my package for me and will be forwarding it on to Auckland, where I will pick it up from another nice person (who I haven't met yet) who said they would hold it for me while I travel through New Zealand. It is so nice when the goodness of some people outweigh the unpleasantness of others.

I am now in New Zealand, driving around this amazingly beautiful land where the photo opportunities abound but I am doing my best to see it through my eyes rather than a camera lens. More to come later...